I read this book for the A Victorian Celebration 2015 hosted over at A Literary Odyssey in June and July, 2015.
American Notes - Charles Dickens
Dickens brings his intelligence, sensitivity, and keen
observation to bear in this travelogue of his journey to the United States in
1842. The first chapter requires patience and forbearance, however, since it is
Dickens at his most jerkily hyper. He’s verbose, repetitious, and facetious.
The tinny enthusiasm made me sure, “I can’t do this for 200 pages.”
Mercifully, he doesn’t maintain this tone but he doesn’t much
calm down either. He took tours of impressive charitable schools and
institutions for people with handicaps and mental illness. But what he thinks
of solitary confinement in a Pennsylvania prison is relevant still today:
I believe that very few men are
capable of estimating the immense amount of torture and agony which this
dreadful punishment, prolonged for years, inflicts upon the sufferers; and in
guessing at it myself, and in reasoning from what I have seen written upon
their faces, and what to my certain knowledge they feel within, I am only the
more convinced that there is a depth of terrible endurance in it which none but
the sufferers themselves can fathom, and which no man has a right to inflict
upon his fellow-creature. I hold this slow and daily tampering with the
mysteries of the brain, to be immeasurably worse than any torture of the body:
and because its ghastly signs and tokens are not so palpable to the eye and sense
of touch as scars upon the flesh; because its wounds are not upon the surface,
and it extorts few cries that human ears can hear; therefore I the more
denounce it, as a secret punishment which slumbering humanity is not roused up
to stay.
After a month or so of close contact with the patriots
and republicans, culture shock has set in. He’s really disgusted by the tobacco
chewing and spitting habit:
As Washington may be called the
head-quarters of tobacco-tinctured saliva, the time is come when I must confess,
without any disguise, that the prevalence of those two odious practices of
chewing and expectorating began about this time to be anything but agreeable,
and soon became most offensive and sickening. In all the public places of
America, this filthy custom is recognised. In the courts of law, the
judge has his spittoon, the crier his, the witness his, and the prisoner his;
while the jurymen and spectators are provided for, as so many men who in the
course of nature must desire to spit incessantly. In the hospitals, the
students of medicine are requested, by notices upon the wall, to eject their
tobacco juice into the boxes provided for that purpose, and not to discolour
the stairs. In public buildings, visitors are implored, through the same
agency, to squirt the essence of their quids, or ‘plugs,’ as I have heard them
called by gentlemen learned in this kind of sweetmeat, into the national
spittoons, and not about the bases of the marble columns. But in some
parts, this custom is inseparably mixed up with every meal and morning call,
and with all the transactions of social life. The stranger, who follows
in the track I took myself, will find it in its full bloom and glory, luxuriant
in all its alarming recklessness, at Washington. And let him not persuade
himself (as I once did, to my shame) that previous tourists have exaggerated
its extent. The thing itself is an exaggeration of nastiness, which
cannot be outdone.
But he’s on the side of the angels with regard to
race-based chattel slavery:
We stopped to dine at Baltimore,
and being now in Maryland, were waited on, for the first time, by slaves.
The sensation of exacting any service from human creatures who are bought and
sold, and being, for the time, a party as it were to their condition, is not an
enviable one. The institution exists, perhaps, in its least repulsive and
most mitigated form in such a town as this; but it is slavery; and
though I was, with respect to it, an innocent man, its presence filled me with
a sense of shame and self-reproach.
We often hear the rubbishy argument that we ought not to
judge the past by our modern standards. But back then there were plenty of
people like Dickens who knew slavery was an abomination. And said so, much to
their credit, though I sure don’t know what he means, “being … a party as it
were to their condition.”
In some after banquet talks Dickens implored his audience
to be fair to writers about copyrights and not buy pirated editions. Talking
about business and money – oh, fetch my smelling bottle, Beulah - offended
delicate sensibilities. So Dickens took a lot of heat from the scurrilous
newspapers of the day whose mission, like Fox News in our day, was to stir up
the rubes. Dickens fired right back at them
What are the fifty newspapers,
which those precocious urchins are bawling down the street, and which are kept
filed within, what are they but amusements? Not vapid, waterish
amusements, but good strong stuff; dealing in round abuse and blackguard names;
pulling off the roofs of private houses, as the Halting Devil did in Spain;
pimping and pandering for all degrees of vicious taste, and gorging with coined
lies the most voracious maw; imputing to every man in public life the coarsest
and the vilest motives; scaring away from the stabbed and prostrate
body-politic, every Samaritan of clear conscience and good deeds; and setting
on, with yell and whistle and the clapping of foul hands, the vilest vermin and
worst birds of prey.—No amusements!
Yow. And this, about our august political leaders in DC:
I saw in them, the wheels that
move the meanest perversion of virtuous Political Machinery that the worst
tools ever wrought. Despicable trickery at elections; under-handed
tamperings with public officers; cowardly attacks upon opponents, with
scurrilous newspapers for shields, and hired pens for daggers; shameful
trucklings to mercenary knaves, whose claim to be considered, is, that every
day and week they sow new crops of ruin with their venal types, which are the
dragon’s teeth of yore, in everything but sharpness; aidings and abettings of
every bad inclination in the popular mind, and artful suppressions of all its
good influences: such things as these, and in a word, Dishonest Faction in its
most depraved and most unblushing form, stared out from every corner of the
crowded hall.
Whoa. Thank heaven politicians nowadays don’t “aid and
abet of every bad inclination in the popular mind.”
I enjoyed this much more than I expected since I was
primed by reading Martin Chuzzlewit
last summer and already knew Dickens’ witty and raw views of the Home of the
Brave. Granting young Dickens was only six months in country, I think the
influence of my frozen disgust at facing a whole year and half of election
posturing had something to do with my malicious pleasure. At the time Dickens’
contemporary Thomas Carlyle said, “American
Notes caused all Yankee-doodledom to blaze up like one universal soda water
bottle.”
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