Travels in
Tartary, Thibet and China during the years 1844-5-6 - Évariste Régis Huc,
C.M. a.k.a. Abbé Huc
Father Évariste Régis Huc was a French missionary
Catholic priest. After 18 months of language immersion courses in Macau, he served the Church in the south of China, but
moved north to Peking. From there he determined to minister to scattered
Christian communities in Mongolia and beyond that he wanted to visit Lhasa,
Tibet, where only one European had visited
before.
Father Huc is quite a storyteller. Like most travel
writers, he’s probably rearranged incidents for effect, but I don’t mind such
liberties. He’s very down home, writing about things we can relate to. Their
dog Arsalan (Lion) was a Chinese dog, explained their local guide, and so got sick and tired of the nomadic Tatar
life. Arsalan ran off in favor of town lights and glitz. Sad Fr. Huc thinks it through:
At first, the loss of Arsalan
grieved us somewhat. We were accustomed
to see him running to and fro in the prairie, rolling in the long grass,
chasing the grey squirrels, and scaring the eagles from their seat on the
plain. His incessant evolutions served
to break the monotony of the country through which we were passing, and to
abridge, in some degree, the tedious length of the way. His office of porter gave him especial title
to our regret. Yet, after the first
impulses of sorrow, reflection told us that the loss was not altogether so
serious as it had at first appeared.
Each day’s experience of the nomadic life had served more and more to
dispel our original apprehension of robbers.
Moreover, Arsalan, under any circumstances, would have been a very
ineffective guard; for his incessant galloping about during the day sent him at
night into a sleep which nothing could disturb.
This was so much the case, that every morning, make what noise we might
in taking down our tent, loading the camels, and so on, there would Arsalan
remain, stretched on the grass, sleeping a leaden sleep; and when the caravan
was about to start, we had always to arouse him with a sound kick or two. Upon one occasion, a strange dog made his way
into our tent, without the smallest opposition on the part of Arsalan, and had
full time to devour our mess of oatmeal and a candle, the wick of which he left
contumeliously on the outside of the tent.
A consideration of economy completed our restoration to tranquility of
mind: each day we had had to provide Arsalan with a ration of meal, at least
quite equal in quantity to that which each of us consumed; and we were not rich
enough to have constantly seated at our table a guest with such excellent
appetite, and whose services were wholly inadequate to compensate for the
expense he occasioned.
Fr. Huc was a priest, after all, so totally expectable
are his dismissive and patronizing views of reincarnation. It was his job to
confront the Lamas with the dogmatical and moral truths of the One True Church:
We commenced [discussion] with
Christianity. The Regent, always amiable
and polished in his conversation with us, said that, as we were his guests, our
belief ought to have the honour of priority.
We successively reviewed the dogmatical and moral truths. To our great astonishment, the Regent did not
seem surprised at anything we said.
“Your religion,” he incessantly repeated, “is conformable with ours; the
truths are the same: we only differ in the explanations. Of what you have seen and heard in Tartary
and Thibet, there is, doubtless, much to blame; but you must not forget that
the numerous errors and superstitions you may have observed, were introduced by
ignorant Lamas, and that they are rejected by well-informed Buddhists.” He only admitted, between him and us, two
points of difference—the origin of the world, and the transmigration of
souls. The belief of the Regent, though
it here and there seemed to approximate to the Catholic doctrine, nevertheless
resulted in a vast pantheism; but he affirmed that we also arrived at the same
result, and he did his best to convince us of this.
I have to admire the sheer courage of anybody attempting
such discussions through the medium of
an imperfectly mastered second language.
Full disclosure: The two volumes total about 600 pages,
a major commitment even for gluttonous readers like us. All I can say is that
readers that like old travel books will like this narrative. It’s in an
unclassifiable class by itself like West’s Black
Lamb and Grey Falcon or Synge’s The
Aran Islands.