I read this book for the 2019
Back
to the Classics Reading Challenge
Classic Set in the
Americas. It’s been about six months since I’ve read
The
Station by Robert Byron, a glittering example of one of my favorite genres,
travel writing from between the wars. I don’t much like Greene; his capacity to
be as bloody-minded as Evelyn Waugh has always dismayed me. I find his serious
novels bleak, his entertainments dull, his overall tone portentous, his
anti-Americanism tedious.
But, for me,
the point of reading in general and a reading challenge in particular is to
read writers that challenge me.
The Lawless Roads
– Graham Greene
In 1937, the Vatican commissioned Greene to visit Mexico
and report on the persecution of the Church by the leftist government of
Plutarco Elisa Calles. By interviewing and observing, Graham found grim evidence
of murders, imprisonment, and other crimes against people who just wanted to practice
their religion in peace. Also, in describing a charlatan trying to exploit a
so-called miracle, he observes that when organized religion is suppressed, our built-in ability and willingness to believe nuttier and nuttier things asserts itself.
In uncertain times, under stress, people believe in anything.
To his credit, Greene feels for the poor who have lost so
much because their religion is being suppressed.
...There had been one priest over the border in
Chiapas, but the people had told him to
go - they couldn’t protect him any longer.
‘And when you die?’ I said.
‘Oh,’ she said, ‘we die like
dogs.’ No religious ceremony was allowed
at the grave. The old people, of course, felt it most - a few weeks before they
had smuggled the Bishop of Campeche in by plane to see her grandmother who was
dying. They had money still . . . but what could the poor do?
He is also impressed by their devotion
When the rains came, men, women,
and children would go on their knees - some of them carrying the cross - to the
river. It must have been a journey of terrible pain - thorn bushes and rocks
and steep descents: it was difficult enough for us to keep from falling. When
they reached the river they poured water on the cross and carried it back. Herr
F in his operations had been very careful of the church, but the Federal
engineers threw out the cross and converted the chapel into a shed for their
tools
Greene’s contact with believers who have suffered for
their faith – facing fines, jail, beatings, contempt, death – made him see the church
with more grandeur than before, that it could inspire such fidelity on the part
of the faithful was profoundly moving.
Though his descriptions of place and scene are excellent,
Greene also works in the tradition of “I hate it here” travel writers between
the wars. The transportation is unreliable, uncomfortable, always late. The
food is bad beyond description even if one suffering from dysentery could eat
it. The heat is beyond bearing. The bedbugs and rats make it impossible to sleep.
Even the turkeys are frightening.
... above all the turkeys -
those hideous Dali heads, with the mauve surrealist flaps of skin they had to
toss aside to uncover the beak or eyes. Suppose when night fell they chose to
perch on the hammock? Where birds are concerned I lose my reason, I feel panic.
The turkey cock blew out its tail, a dingy Victorian fan with the whalebone
broken, and hissed with balked pride and hate, like an evil impotent old pasha.
One wondered what parasites swarmed under the dusty layers of black feathers.
Domestic animals seem to reflect the prosperity of their owners - only the
gentleman farmer possesses the plump complacent good-to-live-with fowls and
pigs; these burrowing ravenous tapirs and down-at-heel turkey cocks belonged to
people living on the edge of subsistence.
Greene got very
ill with dysentery so we have to forgive the rude things he says about Mexicans. When you're sick overseas, everything is dreary, scary, and maddening. And what’s really a "bee sting when you're already crying" is near the end he picks up his mail to find out
that the guardians of Shirley Temple are suing him over a sulfurous review of
Wee
Willie Winkle.
Anyway, reading this book moves me to grant that Greene
had formidable powers of observation and description, enough to make us readers see. I
would recommend this book to readers who like travel and descriptions of places.
Fans of Mexico and Mexicans may be put out.