Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Travels in Arabia Deserta

Travels in Arabia Deserta – Charles Montague Doughty

I read the 1908 abridgment by Edward Garnett, the leading editor of the time. I confess I was not up to 1200 pages of the original travel classic. Because of language like this:

The desert day returning from the east, warns the Beduin awake, who rises to his prayers; or it may be, unwitting of the form, he will but murmur toward heaven the supplication of his fearful human nature and say, "Ah Lord my God!" and, "Oh that this day may be fortunate; give Thou that we see not the evil!" Of daily food they have not half enough, and if any head of the cattle be taken! - how may his household yet live? Bye and bye the herdsman is ready and his beasts are driven far from his sight. No sweet chittering of birds greets the coming of the desert life, besides man there is no voice in this waste drought. The Beduins, that lay down in their cloaks upon the sandy mother-earth in the open tents, hardly before the middle night, are already up and bestirring themselves. In every coffee-sheykh's tent there is new fire blown in the hearth, and he sets on his coffee pots, then snatching a coal in his fingers he will lay it in his tobacco pipe.

Before I down-shifted, reading much more deliberately than usual, I found the mannered and sophisticated language nearly incomprehensible. It took me about 70 or 90 pages to navigate language that would-be publishers called “hardly intelligible,” “too long and obscure,” and “must be put into shape by some competent man.” After it was published, baffled critics damned it as “unreadable.”

Okay, here’s background to one of the strangest books in our native language. In 1876, at the age of 33, Doughty began his travels in Arabia. For two years, he wandered the northwest desert, always being candid that he was a Christian.  The refusal to pose as a Muslim must have taken considerable character, considering the prejudices of the isolated Beduins.

One theme is exploration. Doughty had an interest in cartography, archeology, epigraphy, geology and hydrography. He collected data that was later used by T.E. Lawrence and army engineers during the Arab Revolt. He writes with needless yet endearing upper case letters: “Of surpassing interest to those many minds, which seek after philosophic knowledge and instruction, is the Story of the Earth, Her manifold living creatures, the human generations, and Her ancient rocks.”

Another theme is conflict, of all kinds, at all levels. Doughty has the sanctimonious opinions that we would expect from a Victorian traveler. He labels Islam “hostile” and “barbarous.” Sometimes as he criticizes the Beduw as an outsider, he reveals his Western biases, for instance, against excessive corporal punishment. Sometimes he scolds irritable, inhospitable antagonists with criticism from the inside: “It is not meet to treat a stranger, tired and afflicted, so harshly!” and “We’ve eaten together! How can you mistreat me so meanly?” But sometimes his criticism is based on lofty disparagements of the human condition, such as the cutting observation that even rustics have to have somebody to look down on: “The Fehjies eat the owl: for which they are laughed to scorn by the Beduw, that are devourers of some other vermin.”

Doughty’s outbursts of sarcasm, fury and exasperation with so-called superstition, ignorance and hypocrisy are familiar responses to readers who have been long-term expatriates. I lived for ten years abroad. I understand the useless impatience that the foreigner feels when he thinks the locals are behaving badly. It’s an unreasonable frustration that later makes the foreigner shrug and smile at himself, mentally apologizing and hoping he didn’t made too much of an ass of himself.

But then I’ve never been abroad in menacing situations full of impending violence. In the second year, Doughty was often robbed and cuffed around. During his stay in Kheybar, where the governor and villagers had much less tolerance than his Beduw companions, locals roughed him up and threatened his life. He was sucker-punched. He had knives waved in his face. During the last encounter with a frenzied bully, he came close to being done in with a sword. He escaped without grievous injury but a cautious sheriff sent him to Jedda to be transported out of the country. So, I cut slack for Doughty’s Euro-centrism, as I imagine that it’s not easy to be tolerant and magnanimous toward the perps after one has been manhandled like an object.

Because of the emphatic, bombastic, “vaunted Elizabethan” language, only we reading gluttons – readers who can read anything – need apply. But it’s worth it for we readers that are seriously into classic travel writing. After Arabia DesertaDoughty left travel writing for poetry. He wrote an epic – it seems too small a word, epic  -  six-volume poem about the origins of his nation. The work The Dawn of Britain, was called “the worst poetry of the 19th century” by critic William Blunt. I think I pass on that one.

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